2. Noryangjin Market, Seoul
Brace your nostrils and do not wear your best clothes to this sprawling seafood market in South Korea. The stench is almost overpowering but it’s worth braving to see the enormous crabs, squid, octopus and all manner of fish squirming in the buckets that line the aisles of this market. Come on an empty stomach because you can purchase the catch of the day, then take it to a nearby restaurant where the chef will prepare you a sumptuous meal of crab, oysters, salmon and whatever else you care to try. Wash it all down with a Cass beer, or even better, a few shots of soju.
Gwangjang Market: full steam ahead - © Time Out
1. Try the quintessential Korean tipple
Makgeolli is a traditional Korean drink, made from processed rice and other grains, and usually boasting an alcoholic content of five to seven per cent. Many claim it has special medicinal properties. It’s a refreshing drink and easy to quaff, or to imbibe in quantity: watch out, though, as makgeolli has a habit of making those consuming too much drunk very suddenly indeed. It’s also a little tricky to open a bottle: rice sediment settles at the bottom, so the bottle will have to be shaken, but since the drink is still in the latter stages of fermentation, it’ll fizz like milky champagne. Chin Chin is one of Seoul’s first upscale makgeolli bars, and still one of the best, doling out milky concoctions from around the country – the Horangi (‘Tiger’) brand is particularly delicious, though quite expensive at ₩25,000 per bottle. Elegant vases of more regular makgeolli cost around ₩10,000, but whatever you choose, also be sure to grab some of the excellent food too. Chin Chin, Seogyodong 343-9; 334-1476. Open 11.30pm-1am daily. Transport: Hongik University station, line 2, exit 9.3. Chook out some art
Be sure to set aside time to tour the Seoul Museum of Chicken Art. Yes, you read the name right – chicken art. In case you didn’t know that chickens could be seen in an artistic way, this museum aims to prove just that. The private collection reveals different portrayals of the humble chicken through culture and art. Start with the permanent exhibit on the first floor, then explore the special exhibitions on the second floor. The museum is one of the main attractions in Bukchon Hanok Village – give it a good hour. Open 10am-5pm, closed Mon. Admission ₩3,000. Gahoedong 12; 763-9995. Transport: Anguk station, line 3, exit 2.4. Get suited and booted
The cosmopolitan district of Itaewon has long been the best place to go hunting for a new jacket; walking down the main road between Itaewon and Noksapyeong stations, foreign men are bound to be invited into at least two or three shops for a measuring. The best shops have customer bases that negate the need for such forms of marketing; the following establishments are particularly recommended.In business since 1976, Hamilton Shirts (Hannamdong 736-9, 798-5693) is hugely popular with those looking for tailored shirts. Samples of cotton and silk are present in their hundreds, making the shop’s western wall look like a rainbow. Prices start at an incredible ₩35,000 per shirt and, since your measurements will be kept on file, you’ll be able to order more from abroad. A little higher in quality than Hamilton, Hahn’s Custom Tailoring (Itaewonno 134, 797-0830) also makes excellent shirts, though they actually specialise in suits, employing only the most experienced tailors for this purpose. The materials used are first-rate and the service superb.
5. Hit the market
The numbers are staggering. The sprawling market area known as Dongdaemun has no fewer than 20 shopping malls, and more than 30,000 individual shops. It’s also a place of residence, manufacture, transport and much more.The action takes place over a number of city blocks, both indoors and out. It’s a bewildering place, even for those who have been here before, but there is method to the apparent madness. It runs east to west along the man-made Cheonggyecheon stream, whose northern bank is edged with a subsection known as Gwangjang Market. Though a fairly run-of-the-mill section of covered market by day, it comes alive at night when two intersecting alleys burst open to feed the local masses – the atmosphere can be quite intoxicating. Crossing back over Cheonggyecheon, it will become evident that its southern bank is lined with a snake-like run of indoor markets; these have several levels filled with cheap clothing, though they’re mostly aimed at an older crowd.
Youngsters tend to head to Heunginmunno, a busy road that functions as the market area’s north–south spine. The west side of the road is a near- continuous run of skyscraper malls: Doosan Tower (‘Doota’ to its friends) is the tallest, but Migliore, Cerestar and Hello APM are equally busy. Knock-off brand-name goods are a speciality both in and around these buildings. On the other side of the road is the latest Dongdaemun accessory: the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a futuristic complex designed by Zaha Hadid, and a pretty good indicator of Seoul’s architectural intentions.
7. See the digital D'Light
This showroom is located inside the headquarters of Samsung Electronics, the most international arm of Korea’s largest company. It’s stuffed full of televisions, mobile phones and other electronic gadgets from Samsung’s past, present and future. You’ll be able to check your own laptop’s content on gigantic screens, play online games from your mobile phone, and make use of whatever developments their boffins have come up with in the last year or so. D'Light, Open 10am-7pm Mon- Sat. Admission free. Seochodong 3020-10 (2255-2262). Transport: Gangnam station (line 2), exit 4.8. Get fishy
If you’re ready for a look at Korea’s earthier side, this is the place to go. A pungent wave of raw fish heralds your arrival at Noryangjin fish market, 6,000 square metres of floor space given over to edible wonders of the deep. Start with the wholesalers auctioning off their catches during the early hours of the morning, then follow the sellers to their shops – each one a hive of activity. The atmosphere is convivial: there’s no hard sell, no pressure to buy, and haggling is part of the game. Meander around for long enough and you’ll eventually want to buy some fish or king crab and head up to a nearby restaurant, where it will either be cooked or sliced and served up raw. It may sometimes feel like a reality show gone weird, but fortune does indeed favour the brave at Noryangjin – where else will you be able to say you’ve tried sea cucumber? Transport: Seonyudo station (line 9), Yeongdeungpo station (line 1), Singil station (lines 1 & 5).11. Get down at the silent disco
It’s ironic that Seoul’s most rambunctious quarter has also found fame for silence and darkness. Held every few weekends, the Silent Disco sees a troupe of fun-lovers don headphones in Norita Park, then have a silent-to-others walking party around the Hongdae streets. Only the first 300 to arrive get headphones. Then there’s Dialogue in the Dark, which takes place on the ninth floor of the Vertigo building in Sinchon; for ₩30,000 you get to perform various activities in total darkness for an hour or so.12. Step back in time
Though beloved by locals today, the area could have looked quite different had other plans come to fruition: in the 1960s, as with more or less everywhere else in what was then a city with new-found affluence and a booming population, Bukchon was slated for renovation. However, protests from locals (and the nearby location of the presidential home) persuaded the government to spare the area, which has been left distinctly low-rise as skyscrapers have sprouted to the south. End result: one of the most visually pleasing places in Seoul, its winding, hilly lanes a reminder of past times. Transport: Anguk subway (line 3).13. While away a rainy day
Seoul’s main historical museum is very large, very interesting, and one of the city’s best places in which to while away a rainy day. The permanent exhibits chart each segment of the city’s fascinating past, from the Stone Age to present times. A more recent creation is the large floor map of Seoul, which children find particularly riveting. These permanent exhibitions have free entry, but some wings of the museum host temporary exhibitions of art or photography – this is almost always work of extremely high quality, so it’s worth giving the museum’s website a look to see what’s going on. Also on the complex is Kongdu Iyagi, a restaurant serving delectable neo-Korean food. Seoul Museum of History. Open 9am-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm Sat, Sun. Admission free (ticket required from reception); ₩700 for most temporary exhibitions. Saemunangil 50 (724-0194). Transport: Gwanghwamun station (line 5), exit 7.17. Rock up
Until 2009, the Incheon-based Pentaport Rock Festival reigned supreme on the Korean rockers’ calendar. But some of the organisers split off after a disagreement and started a second, simultaneous event – the Jisan Valley Rock Festival. Since both festivals take place around the same time as Japan’s Fuji Rock Festival, they’ve been able to draw big acts already on tour in Asia such as Belle & Sebastian, Pet Shop Boys and Oasis. Jisan Valley Rock, Jisan Valley San Haewolli 28-1, Majang-myeon, Icheon City, Gyeonggi Province. Pentaport near Dream Park, Incheon. Late July.Stay
There are all sorts of swanky hotels to choose from in Seoul, but to get a real sense of the city, stay in a traditional hanok guesthouse. Sophia Guesthouse (Sogyeokdong 157-1; +82 2 720 5467), just off one of Seoul’s most youthfully artsy streets, has an authentic dynastic feel. The dark-wood Josean structures and courtyard make you feel like you’ve gone back 150 years, creating a great contrast to – and respite from – modern Seoul on your doorstep.A weekend warrior’s guide to… Seoul
“A WEEKEND Warrior: A person who holds a regular job during the week which restricts their ability to party / go on trips / partake in awesome activities, and thus plans epic weekend adventures to compensate.”
SEOUL: a gargantuan city in perpetual change. Go traipsing in unprepared, and the high-rise metropolis might swallow you whole. So, with only 48 precious hours to gallivant through town before the crushing reality of Monday, be sure to follow this weekend warrior’s guide to ensure you see the best of Seoul.
Seoul By Day
Swathed in the regal majesty of the Joseon Dynasty, Gyeongbokgung (Gyeongbokgung stn.) is Seoul’s biggest crowd-pleaser and best place to start. Originally constructed in 1395 (though reconstructed many times since), the royal palace is a historical gem besieged by modernity. Inside the thick palace walls are rows upon rows of oriental-roofed buildings, imposing gates, tranquil gardens and a folk museum.
A night time shot of Gwanghwamun Gate, the main gate of Gyeongbukgung Palace. Pic: Shutterstock.com
Mountains are literally everywhere in Korea. The average Seoulite enjoys hoofing up them regularly. Mt. Gwanaksan (Gwanak stn.) is probably the easiest to climb – plus the temple clung to the stomach-churning precipice up top should not be missed! If hiking seems like far too much physical exertion, cable car your lazy derriere up Mt. Namsan to N Seoul Tower (Chungmuro stn.), and survey the city in all its splendour from the revolving restaurant.
Seoul Tower at night. Pic: David Hepworth, FlickrCC.
(READ MORE: 5 great markets in Asia)
Depending on the political situation (ghastly at the time of writing!), the intrepid visitor can experience the tension of the Cold War in all its glory by touring its last bastion at the DMZ. Tours are numerous and the best ones take in the joint security area of Panmunjom, the North Korean tunnels, and even amble inside the demilitarised zone. You’ll need to book before you arrive.
(READ MORE: The Korean DMZ: War zone or tourist trap?)
A
shop keeper waits for customers at a souvenir shop just outside the
border village of Panmunjom, the demilitarized zone that has separated
the two Koreas since the Korean War, in Paju, north of Seoul, South
Korea. Pic: AP.
Seoul By Night
Having toured all day, it’s time to sortie into the city nightlife. Lucky then that Seoul has three distinct districts in which to carouse till sunrise.
Itaewon, a mecca of foreign restaurants, bars and nightclubs, is popular with the expat crowd. Head to Itaewon stn and take pretty much any exit. Popular bars are Geckos, Three Alleys and The Wolfhound.
Seoul At Night
For the swankiest nightclub action, go south of the river to Gangnam (Gangnam stn.). Club Answer, Club Mass and Club Eden are where the city’s hardcore clubbers congregate. Gangnam is the ritzy area of Seoul immortalised by that infuriating song. So if expensive coffee shops, boutique / department stores and plastic surgery are your style, then perhaps it’s worth checking out by day, too.
Life in Korea: shopping for vintage clothes in Seoul
Seoul has more shopping than even the biggest fashionistas will have time to see. Towering department stores overlook their more traditional roots, and while the old school markets retain a certain charm, the vintage stores combine a taste of the new with the styles of yesterdecade. There’s more than a few out there, thanks to the vintage style gaining momentum.
What’s most interesting: the style of vintage is a Western one – and the clothes often imported or sent to Korea. The result? Western styles, western sizes, and generally at a decent price. While the selection can be random, they’re definitely worth checking out.
The most obvious place to start
You may have heard of the Beautiful Store (아름다움 가게) – essentially a clone of the American chain known as Goodwill. If you’re unfamiliar with either, the stores sells items that were donated to them and generates revenue for social programs. It’s a bargain-hunter’s dream, although each locations naturally has a unique, fluctuating selection. There are quite a few around town, but this official page shares the ones most visited by English-language speakers.
The Salvation Army have their own stores, but the official website is less than helpful for English speakers – instead, check out the excellent Korea4Expats page for their locations.
But wait, there’s plenty more!
Downtown Seoul
Gwangjang Market – you may have gone for the fish, the fabric, or the pajeon in the past, but this time, go for the clothes. Up on the 2nd floor is enough vintage stuff – and LOTS of stuff for guys – to clothe a small army. A lot of it is from the Western world, and quite a bit of it is hideous – perfect for Halloween or any number of costume parties.
Jongno-5-ga, line 1, exit 7. Pass Gwangjang Market on left, entering near the end, going up a wide staircase at the corner that looks like this:
It’s just past an orange brick wall. Once on the second floor, head right and prepare to be amazed.
Hongdae
Page One – an interesting third-floor destination. Almost entirely women’s clothing and accessories – very little for men. 서울특별시 마포구 서교동 364-3, 070-8612-5329, page-one.co.kr
The easiest way to arrive is from Sangsu station, line 6, exit 1. Make the U-turn to the right, then walk about 300 meters to the first side street past a larger road, Wa-u-san-ro-19-gil (와우산로19길). Walk 50 meters to the second right, Wa-u-san-ro-21-gil (와우산로21길), and walk another 50 meters. Look left and up, to the third floor. If you reach the Hongdae Children’s Park, you’ve gone too far.
Cowboy - one of the only vintage stores I know of that has more clothes for men than for women. A lot of American cultural stuff, including rock band t-shirts, overalls / uniforms, and so on. 서울특별시 마포구 서교동 345-3 – start from Hongdae station, line 2, exit 9. Take the immediate right down the side street, then walk to the third right (by the Aritaum and Pho Bay). Walk 20 meters and look for the Cowboy sign on your right – it’s in the basement.
Two are quite close to each other and Sangsu station, line 6, exit 1 – Lost & Found (서 울특별시 마포구 상수동 146-19, 010-6672-3712, lostnfound.kr) steers more toward vintage furniture and silverware, along with women’s clothes and accessories. There’s almost nothing for the guys here, so move onto the other place (서울특별시 마포구 상수동 91-2). Also along the main road, this place screams ‘VINTAGE CLOTHES’ without any form of subtlety, though I didn’t see a name to the place.
Manhattan American Vintage Clothing - quite a bit of stuff for women, but not a whole bunch for the guys.
Arrive from Sangsu station, exit 1, U-turn to the right, then walk about 250 meters and turn left down 와우산로17길 (Wa-u-san-ro-17-gil) – this is the side street with a straight and left fork. Head straight for 100 meters and look right, just before a major intersection with 어울마당로. It’s in the basement.
North of the river
The Seoul Folk Flea Market is worth a mention, though there’s not a lot of clothes you’ll want to buy. To get to the Seoul Folk Flea Market, take the Seoul subway system to the Sinseol-dong station on line 1 or 2. Take exit 9, then immediately turn around. Turn left at the first street, then walk straight for 80 meters. Enter the building through any of the many entrances
The Dongmyo station area has more than enough folks selling almost everything from ancient tech (not sure anyone needs old landline phones anymore) to a fair amount of clothing. Start from Dongmyo station (line 1 or 6), exit 3, and look right.
South of the river
VinPrime has two locations in the Express Bus Terminal – one on the line 7 corridor a floor above the platform, and one in the line 3 area, a floor below street level. The latter is closest to line 8. Both offer a roughly equal percentage of stuff for men and women, and both have discounts for larger purchases (above 50,000 won)
The Garosu-gil area, while trendy, is more ‘retro’ styles than authentic vintage. Get here from Sinsa station (line 3), exit 8, walk about 250 meters and look left. It’s proper name, according to the new address system, is 도산대로13길
Where do you go to get your vintage needs?
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