Gujo Hachiman

Gujo Hachiman

Green hills and fresh water canals define this Gifu town rich in soba, sake, and history

By: Text and photos by Rebecca Milner | Jun 28, 2011 | One Comment | 3,153 views

While paying for lunch at Hirajin, I ask off-handedly if the restaurant has a long history. The wooden building, whose backside overlooks the Yoshida River, doesn’t look particularly old, but a small black and white photo of an older-looking structure suggests that there may have been an earlier incarnation.
“We’ve only been a soba restaurant for about 30 years,” says the young waiter. When I point to the photo, he shifts on his feet and glances uncomfortably at the table still not cleared before saying, “This used to be just an all-round eatery.” And after a pause: “Maybe for about 300 years, since its been going for nine generations now.”
Hirano Honten, the sake distiller down the street, can trace its ownership back 15 generations. “My ancestors came here from Nara about 450 years ago. We were on the losing side of the Onin War,” explains Setsuko Hirano after another similar series of questions.
This is the Gifu that isn’t Takayama, the Gifu that hasn’t quite yet learned how to take advantage of its history. The town of Gujo Hachiman is working to own—and market—this history; the fact that it hasn’t yet managed to do so completely is a big part of its appeal.
Like Takayama, the much-visited Edo-era town 60km to the north, Gujo Hachiman has a central river, hills rising at the edges, and narrow streets flanked with wooden buildings. The buildings here are not as old as the ones in Takayama, as many old structures burnt down in the 1920s. On the other hand most are still homes, which means you are more likely to see umbrellas and potted plants spilling out front instead of souvenirs. Many have stone steps leading directly down to the canals that line the streets. Some also have rows of red metal fire buckets strung from their eaves.
Fire must have robbed Gujo Hachiman of much over the centuries, but it also led to the creation of the town’s most attractive feature: its canals. Following a disastrous fire in the 17th century, the capillary system of waterways was constructed as a defense against subsequent ones. More often, however, the waterways were—and continue to be—used for more mundane activities such as laundry and washing vegetables. There are also several highly photographic traditional water fountains, tiered basins called mizu fune, scattered around town from which to drink.
The Gifu countryside is an endless repeat-cycle of brilliant green valleys and rural hamlets not lacking in history, but rather the tourist bureaus to boast of it. What defines Gujo Hachiman is its water. The town is located at the convergence of three rivers that bring snowmelt down from the surrounding mountains. The clear, fast-running streams provide fresh water for the soba, sake, and river fish on which the town prides itself. From June, the long poles of the ayu (sweetfish) fishermen lash the rivers, bringing in the small silver fish that are eaten head to tail, grilled with salt. Other river delicacies include amago (red spotted trout) and iwana (char).
In spring, the most exciting thing happening on the streets of Gujo Hachiman are the baskets of fresh-picked sansai (mountain vegetables) and takenoko (bamboo shoots) that appear in front of shops (and sometimes homes too)—available for a steal. Come summer, however, there is Gujo Odori, one of Japan’s most important traditional dance festivals. It takes places most evenings from mid-July through the first weekend of September. At its peak, four nights during Obon in mid-August, the dancing continues all night. Unlike the usual locals-only parades, Gujo Odori is open to all and visitors are encouraged to participate.

Nagoya is the most convenient starting point for trips to Gujo Hachiman. Direct buses (approx 1.5 hours, ¥2,000) run twice daily from Nagoya Meitetsu Bus Center to the town center at Jokamachi Plaza. More frequent buses heading from Nagoya to Takayama also stop at the Gujo Hachiman Interchange (approx 1.5 hours, ¥1,800); from there it’s a 1km walk to town. It’s also possible to go by train: take the Takayama line from JR Nagoya station to Mino Ota and transfer to the Nagaragawa line (limited express approx 2 hours, 15 minutes, ¥4,090; local 2 hours, 45 minutes, ¥2,460). Stop in at the Hakurankan for a quick primer in Gujo Odori dance moves (child ¥300/adult ¥500). For more information about Gujo Hachiman, visit www.gujohachiman.com/kanko/index_e.htm